After spending a few weeks back in Italy, Art I have been soaking up the charm of life in Lucca, a beautiful Tuscan town known for its medieval walls and winding cobblestone streets. Life here is peaceful and full of history, but as much as I love it, there are days when I long for something different. I miss open spaces, the salty smell of the sea, and the calming sound of waves.
So, when a group of friends recently suggested a spontaneous evening trip to the coast for dinner, I said yes without hesitation. I didn’t even ask where exactly we were going. Sometimes, it’s nice to let yourself be surprised and just go with the flow.
The Drive to Viareggio
Our little adventure began with a scenic drive. We avoided the main highways and instead took the back roads leading to Viareggio, a lively seaside town about thirty minutes from Lucca. The drive itself was a treat. We passed rolling Tuscan hills, small villages with stone houses, and patches of farmland glowing golden in the late afternoon sun.
By the time we arrived in Viareggio, the light was already softening. This town is well known for its Carnevale celebrations, which draw huge crowds each February with colorful parades and elaborate floats. But even outside of Carnival season, Viareggio is full of energy. Its Liberty-style architecture – graceful, elegant buildings reminiscent of Italy’s Art Nouveau era – gives the town a stylish feel. Tall palm trees line the streets, and grand hotels overlook the water, adding to its old-world seaside charm.
One of the highlights of Viareggio is its long promenade that runs parallel to the beach. Lined with private beach clubs, small shops, casual cafes, and restaurants, it’s the perfect place for a stroll. Even though it was early September, the town still had that lingering summer vibe – families walking together, couples on evening dates, and groups of friends enjoying gelato as they watched the sea.
Dinner at La Pia – More Than Just a Beachside Restaurant
After a short walk along the promenade, we headed to La Pia, a restaurant tucked inside one of the private beach clubs. At first, I imagined a casual, sandy-footed beach restaurant with wooden chairs and umbrellas. Instead, I was greeted by a surprise.
La Pia was elegant and beautifully designed, with a fresh, all-white décor that felt both sophisticated and inviting. The only pops of color came from touches of greenery placed throughout the dining area and the colorful beach umbrellas set up on the sand in the distance. From our table, we could see the horizon clearly, and as the sun began to set, the sky slowly turned shades of orange and pink. Italians call this moment “tramonto al mare,” which means sunset at the sea, and it truly was magical to watch.
A Feast of Fresh Seafood
Because La Pia sits right by the sea, it is no surprise that the menu is packed with seafood dishes. It was difficult to choose from so many delicious options – fresh grilled fish, seafood pastas, and the classic fritto misto, a platter of lightly fried seafood.
In the end, we decided to share a fritto misto as an appetizer. It arrived at the table crisp and golden, with a mix of calamari, shrimp, and small fish. Each bite was light and flavorful, with just the right amount of crunch. Since the appetizer was generous, we chose to skip the pasta course and went straight to the main dish: grilled branzino (sea bass).
The branzino was perfectly cooked, tender and moist, and beautifully presented on a bed of pureed vegetables. It came with sides of grilled eggplant and zucchini, which added a lovely smoky flavor to the plate. A glass of chilled Prosecco paired wonderfully with the meal, its bubbles cutting through the richness of the fish and vegetables.
Dessert Drama – Crepes Suzette
I had firmly decided to skip dessert. After all, I was full and content. But my companions were not ready to end the meal just yet. One ordered a decadent gelato-covered chocolate truffle, while the other chose Crepes Suzette, a classic French dessert.
The Crepes Suzette came with a touch of theater. A copper pan was rolled to our table so the server could flambé the sauce right in front of us. The smell of caramelized sugar and orange liqueur filled the air as the flames flickered briefly. When it was served, the crepes were delicate and slightly sweet, topped with tiny shreds of orange and lemon peel and a small scoop of gelato. I couldn’t resist trying a bite – or two. So much for skipping dessert!
A Perfect Ending
As we finished the last sips of our drinks, I could hear the gentle sound of the waves lapping against the shore. The air was cooler now, and the sunset had turned the sky deep shades of red and purple before finally disappearing into the sea.
The combination of good food, warm company, and the stunning natural beauty of the coast made for an unforgettable evening. Viareggio had surprised me in the best possible way. It wasn’t just about dinner; it was about stepping away from the routine, feeling the salty breeze, and being reminded of how much joy a simple evening trip can bring.
If you ever find yourself in Tuscany and crave the sea, make time to visit Viareggio. Take a walk along its lively promenade, watch the sun dip below the horizon, and enjoy a seafood feast at a place like La Pia. It’s the kind of experience that makes you fall in love with Italy all over again.