Just an hour by boat from bustling Food Naples, you’ll find an island that still feels delightfully untouched. Ischia lovingly avoids the spotlight, and local residents wouldn’t have it any other way.
While glamorous Capri basks in fame—glittering in fashion shoots, film sets, and glossy magazine spreads—Ischia offers something more authentic. Capri draws celebrities and cruise ships. It brims with designer boutiques, trendy cafes, and paparazzi. Since the 1950s, it’s been synonymous with luxury and status.
By contrast, Ischia is the summer spot for Neapolitans seeking a real, relaxed getaway. The island, one of a volcanic trio along with Procida and Capri, stretches larger than it appears. It comprises six distinct towns and overflows with genuine local charm. Here, you feel as though you’ve walked into a place with a history that’s still very much alive.
When the Food Speaks First
If Capri is all about the views, Ischia lets its flavors do the talking. The star dish is Coniglio all’Ischitana, a rabbit stew slow-cooked in clay pots with garlic, cherry tomatoes, white wine, and a hint of chili. For true culinary magic, call ahead—many top restaurants need to know in advance to prepare it.
Another true standout here is seafood, often served at its freshest. The calamari, simply seasoned, often swam offshore that very morning. At Trattoria Il Focolare, perched high in the hills, dishes arrive with the warmth of a family meal. Expect generous antipasti platters and a rabbit stew so tender it melts off the bone—plus views worthy of the drive up.
Down in Ischia Ponte, Ristorante Pirozzi punches beyond its weight with excellent pizzas that rival mainland favorites. And near Sant’Angelo, Le Fumarole da Nicola is a unique experience—you dine on seafood over saltwater and volcanic steam vents. It’s a meal and a natural show rolled into one.
Where to Stay: Quiet Elegance Over Flashy Headlines
Capri’s name may attract fashion week chic, but Ischia offers its own subtle kind of elegance.
Mezzatorre Hotel sits above a rocky, secluded cove. Its spa uses geothermal mud and mineral-rich water straight from the island’s hot springs. Imagine sipping your morning coffee under blue-striped umbrellas, gaze fixed on the glittering San Montano Bay—that’s what this place delivers.
Then there’s Il Monastero, nestled inside the centuries-old Castello Aragonese. You enter through an elevator carved into the rock, wander through gardens that grow produce for the hotel’s restaurant, and enjoy leisurely breakfasts on a terrace that overlooks the sea.
For those who love feeling just steps from the water, Umberto a Mare brings the beach to your balcony. It’s pacifying and simple, perfect for slow mornings and soft waves.
What to Do (When You’re Not Eating)
Ischia is all about soaking, literally—whether it’s the sea, the hot springs, or the sunlight.
The island is renowned for its natural thermal spas, revered for centuries. Poseidon Gardens and Negombo Thermal Park are large complexes offering thermal pools, direct sea access, and aromatic hammams. The warm volcanic mud is not just relaxing—it’s said to have healing properties.
The Castello Aragonese is a must-see. Built atop a rocky promontory and connected by a narrow stone bridge, it’s rich with history, frescoes, and hidden pathways. You can stop for an espresso at one of its terrace cafes and imagine the stories it has witnessed over hundreds of years.
If it’s quieter beauty you seek, Giardini La Mortella offers a peaceful escape. Created by the late composer Susanna Walton and landscaped by designer Russell Page, this serene garden feels tucked away and timeless.
For hikers, Mount Epomeo is worth the climb. It may not be a mountain in scale, but reaching the summit rewards you with sweeping views of vineyard terraces, olive groves, and sea. A casual walk or a gentle trek—many paths begin right in town—and there’s often bruschetta and house wine waiting when you arrive at the top.
And don’t forget the beaches. Spiaggia dei Maronti, stretching along the south coast, is lined with cozy beach clubs. San Montano curves gently and shares waterfront with Negombo’s thermal zone. Giardino Eden, close to the castle, has wooden planks over the sea that are perfect for lounging. The beach clubs here feel like familiar places, where grilled fish and a cold prosecco are just steps away.
Getting There: Easy, Scenic, and Slow—Just the Way Island Life Should Be
From Naples, ferries and hydrofoils connect to Ischia Porto regularly. Some hotels even provide pickups. If you’re road-tripping, car ferries run often as well. Once you’re on the island, it’s surprisingly easy to get around—small but comprehensive.
You don’t require a car, though it can be convenient. For warmer months, a scooter might be even better. Just be aware—the roads are narrow, winding, and can offer a dramatic ride through olive groves and terraced vineyards.
Final Thoughts
Capri shines bright, drawing crowds with its glamour and media buzz. But if you want a summer somewhere authentically Italian, rich with food, history, and genuine life, Ischia is your place.
It’s where a slow meal matters more than a photo op, where thermal gardens tell stories of volcanic wonder, and where every sunset feels personal. If unhurried beauty gets your heart racing, Ischia is quietly calling your name.